Just a geek who lives in Olympia, WA with my wife, son, and animals. In my free time I play board games, write fiction, and make stuff.
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the-lemonaut:

Solarpunk, realism, dystopia: a rant

Page 1 of comic. The uppermost caption states: "I like realistic Solarpunk. I think it's the best kind, actually!" Under it is a horizontal space filled with doodles: someone exiting a tool library, a girl holding a mended sock, a chama group is pooling donations, a woman browses Wikipedia, a volunteer is filling a bowl with free soup.
"By realistic I mean grounded. Something that we could imagine happening in our real world. No magic (a drawing of a girl with fire powers), no supernatural elements unless you know what you're doing (a talking cat), no cure-all tech (a man is claiming a tiny piece of tech is going to solve everything).
The artist appears. "I feel that way because of my answer to this question: what is Solarpunk for?"ALT
Page 2. "Well, let's see...Solarpunk isn't just an aesthetic, it's an emerging genre and artistic movement." The statement is accompanied by mandala-like drawing of several hands drawing the Solarpunk symbol.
Then there's a dualistic drawing: Cyberpunk and Solarpunk next to each other. In the Cyberpunk drawing, a man is holding a gun, and in the other he is unloading soil from a big bag into a garden bed. Three tiny people are floating next to the Solarpunk man, imagining what tasty stuff can grow from that soil.
The caption reads: "Solarpunk is also sort of CyberPunk's counterpart. While Cyberpunk concerns itself with wrecking bad old systems, Solarpunk is about building new, better ones. SolarPunk's creation was very intentional - it's for letting us imagine a tomorrow that's not a fucking shitshow."
In the corner, the artist points at a box labeled "future" and asks "If it's alive, what do you reckon it looks like?"ALT
Page 3. "And that tomorrow part is important! When it comes to technology, we can stop climate change and achieve a sustainable world right now." A whole section next to this text is filled with various sustainable technologies: perma- and polyculture, wind turbines, vernacular architecture, reforestation, libraries of everything, trains, trams, bikes, solar panels, habitat restoration, degrowth etc.
"We don't need to wait until a fancy piece of tech comes along and fixes everything." There's a rendition of that meme where people are huddling together to discuss something. A contraption called "carbon sucker 9000 appears". The group gives it a thumbs up and continues discussing their own stuff like minimizing plane travel.

"What we need is large cultural and societal change. But most people struggle to imagine anything but dystopia."
In a frame nearby, a rich guy gleefully puts his foot on a pair of scales, favoring a bag of money over the planet. However, just out of frame is a group of people with tools, ready to take the planet back.

"Solarpunk is for filling that blank space! And a grounded, though not unambitious, approach makes it feel more achievable to the average person."ALT
Page 4. "If we can imagine absolute Cyberpunk dystopia with ease but not the opposite, it's because we don't have enough popular stories yet which would showcase that believable alternative." A lady is reading a Solarpunk book. She exclaims: "So you're telling me people can just do stuff without a monetary incentive or the risk of hunger and homelessness? Movie number 3752 about robots enslaving humanity was much more realistic!"
"The hard part for Solarpunks is imagining what the culture and structure of this new society would look like. How would it operate?" Drawing: the author sits gloomily at a desk, mumbling "I wish I could try out this hobby but the tools are so expensive, and I don't even know if it'll be a long-term interest or not...". But then they have an epiphany. "Wait, I could literally just go to the library!"
"How does this new world think? And what do we change about ourselves to get closer to it?" The final doodle is of a man stating we must ensure economic growth until the end of time, though the woman next to him retorts: "You and what endless planetary resources?" She then suggests that we instead produce what's necessary and give it to those who need it.ALT
Page 5. "I find that thinking about the way we do particular things now, and then trying to restructure them in a solarpunk way helps a lot (if said things are worth keeping in the first place). Like, how would (insert thing) work if we gave a damn about its environmental and societal consequences? What are the large and small effects of it?"
Then there's three sections, each dealing with a different issue.
First, "What does free  access to information and the dissolution of copyright and patents help achieve?" Drawing: a lady is reading - quote "literally any book or study" - on an e-reader. In her arm she has an implant, a glucose monitor that is free to both obtain and maintain.
Second, "How does library culture affect societal attitudes? How are people with compulsive hoarding treated? What assumptions exist in such a world?" Drawing: two girls are chatting. One says she has like 20 borrowings lying around at home, and at that the other covers her mouth with her hands. "Girl, what? Return them immediately!"
Lastly, "How are people with so-called shitty though important jobs get treated when money isn't a factor anymore?" Drawing: a man announces to his partner that he feels like janitor-ing for a bit. The partner sees no problem in it.ALT
6th and final page. "If you want more ideas to think about, check out the Solarpunk Prompts podcast." There's a link to it in the post below.
"Things need not be perfect, they just have to be better on the whole." Then there's another horizontal spread. On the left, a person is asking another to fix their phone. The second one seems impressed by how old the model is. The first person says they've had it since they were 15. On the right, a young girl is asking her dad if it's true that "water was forbidden" in the past. He looks a little dazed, saying "well, sort of?" and thinking "oh boy, it's time for the talk". In the middle is a city landscape with lots of fruit trees, a bike lane, a tramline. People are chatting, a kid is drawing on the pavement, someone sits on a bench, a bird nibbles on an apple.

"Just because something is hard to imagine doesn't mean it's impossible. Unless it's magic. Magic is pretty impossible. Anyway...Go forth! Imagine shit! Lest the doomerism fungus consume us!"
End of comic.ALT

Hopefully this is helpful to someone out there 🌸

You can find the Prompts podcast here, I drew some of the covers :D Also check out this digital library full of Creative Commons Solarpunk art (neither of these are sponsored).


🦗Somewhat shameful plug🦗

I would highly appreciate if you threw me a couple bucks on Buy Me a Coffee or bought a commission, my money number is only getting smaller these days 😔🤙

Hey, look at that! There’s now a zine version of this post 👁👁 You can find it right here in PDF format: [link]

A screenshot of the zine formatted comic in the PDF fileALT

#solarpunk

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Op-Ed: Latest Hit-and-Run Shows Harrell’s Failure on Lake Washington Boulevard Safety

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On Sunday, June 15, one of our worst fears almost came to pass on Bicycle Weekend. A 16-year-old kid riding an electric motorcycle on Lake Washington Boulevard was forcefully hit by a car from behind. The motorcycle rider was approaching Lake Park Drive S from the north, having stopped for a vehicle in front of him who was, in turn, yielding to a pedestrian crossing the boulevard. The initial collision threw the kid off his bike. Immediately after, the driver of the car proceeded to crash into the jettisoned motorcycle, crushing it — seemingly on purpose.

The driver sped up, turned south on Lake Park Drive S, out of sight, with a shower of sparks coming from the bike trapped under its front bumper. The driver never came back to check on the motorcycle rider, instead pulling off on Mount Baker Boulevard where they pulled the crushed cycle out from under their car.

Their car was photographed by witnesses at that location. The car’s brand, color, and model are clear from the photos, including images showing the driver removing the cycle from under their car, dumping the bike and some of their car’s parts on the roadside.

Fortunately the kid escaped without serious injury, but the victim, their family, and witnesses (including one of the authors of this letter) were understandably shaken. How could such a lovely day on the boulevard be marred by such a senseless act of violence?

Bicycle Weekends extends all the way from Mount Baker Beach to Seward Park. (Seattle Parks)

We have been a part of a coalition advocating for traffic safety improvements on Lake Washington Boulevard. This incident could have been prevented if the road had a safer design. Unfortunately, Mayor Bruce Harrell decided to remove an all-way stop sign planned at the Lake Park Drive intersection as part of the Lake Washington Boulevard safety project. 

Had a stop sign been in place on Sunday – it could have been installed months ago – chances are good that the driver would have stopped and avoided colliding with the young motorcycle rider in front of him. When the planned stop sign was removed by the Harrell Administration, our primary concern was that drivers wouldn’t yield to people walking and rolling crossing Lake Washington Boulevard between Mount Baker Beach and Mount Baker Park. 

A diagram shows the all-way stop at the Lake Park Drive S intersection. Currently, the Lake Washington Boulevard traffic does not have a stop sign in either direction.
The proposed all-way stop at Mount Baker Beach, dropped from the project last summer, was the target of an opposition campaign by the group Coexist Lake Washington. (City of Seattle)

This crash demonstrates that concern was justified. Hopefully the mayor will recognize his mistake and lead with safety at this intersection, rather than following a handful of uncompromising complainers who have hijacked the process, which had been originally launched to enhance safety on the boulevard for everyone.

Fortunately the worst case outcome did not occur. With the help of witnesses who pitched in, the victim compiled substantial, solid evidence. Passing this evidence over to the police and our tough-on-crime Seattle City Attorney surely means the hit-and-run driver would be held accountable.

Lake Washington Boulevard’s Bicycle Weekends were expanded under Mayor Jenny Durkan, but reduced to only 10 weekends of only 32 hours each under Mayor Bruce Harrell. (Seattle Neighborhoods Greenway)

Replacing a destroyed electric motorcycle will also be a significant cost for a teenager to bear. And the City not pursuing legal action against the hit-and-run driver will make it harder for the teen to recover damages for his totaled vehicle.

By our inexpert estimation, failure to yield, failure to exercise due caution, failure to remain at the scene of a collision, and tampering with physical evidence would all be reasonable charges to bring based on witness statements. Unfortunately, that’s not what happened. 

The police are asserting that this hit-and-run on a kid enjoying a day at the park is the same as any other property damage hit-and-run. An officer with the Seattle Police Department’s Traffic Collision Unit said that in the last year there were 10,000 hit-and-runs in the city, and by policy, as there were no injuries (other than skinned knees) in this incident they do not have the capacity to pursue those at fault. 

The problem is that the police are treating a kid on a motorcycle getting hit by an adult driver with positive identification like a driver hitting a trash can, mail box, or parked car and then not leaving a note. We all know this is different, so why won’t the police act on it? 

We understand that the police must make decisions to prioritize incidents for investigation, but we think that the blanket refusal to investigate traffic crimes unless there was a death or serious injury is a mistake. We call on the newly appointed Chief of Police Shon Barnes to take a serious look at whether this approach aligns with his desired approach to public safety. If he disagrees, he needs to step in now and issue different directives to prioritize investigating all serious traffic collisions. 

In the case of egregious traffic violence with numerous witnesses and a positive identification of the vehicle, and or driver, victims deserve to have the police performing a full investigation. Imagine if a known person shot at someone and a positive ID was obtained, but the police refused to charge because the shooter missed! We’d never accept that outcome. But because the driver uses a vehicle instead of a gun, it’s just police policy to shrug. Such a policy encourages people to drive with impunity.There’s still a chance to right this wrong. We ask all of the candidates currently running for elected office in our city to raise their voices with us. Enforcement shouldn’t be the first choice for achieving traffic safety, but in the face of unrepentant acts there have to be consequences for actions.

In response to this senseless act and our experience with seeing far too many drivers ignoring the Bicycle Weekends street closure putting revelers in danger we are calling on volunteers to create a people-projected Bicycle Weekend at the Mount Baker Beach on Saturday, June 28th at 12pm. Sign up here

The post Op-Ed: Latest Hit-and-Run Shows Harrell’s Failure on Lake Washington Boulevard Safety first appeared on The Urbanist.

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King County’s Housing First Initiative Boasts High Success Rate

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The Health Through Housing program provides a road map for exiting homelessness, and it’s working. 

On Thursday, King County’s Department of Community & Human Services (DCHS) released its 2024 data showing the success of the Health Through Housing initiative, which provides permanent supportive and emergency housing for people exiting homelessness. DCHS pointed to improved housing stability and improved health outcomes for their residents via the program. 

In 2020, County Executive Dow Constantine announced the Health Through Housing initiative. Hoping to capitalize on cheap real estate during the Covid-19 pandemic, the program aimed to buy former hotels and other suitable buildings to convert into single-unit housing, saving money and time by avoiding having to build similar housing from scratch.

The initiative took effect at the beginning of 2021, with the implementation of a 0.1% sales tax in King County. Raising about $70 million per year at that time, the King County Council allocated the tax’s proceeds to the initiative, intended to purchase and convert properties into emergency and permanent supportive housing and provide onsite services. 

The program’s objective was to provide 1,600 housing units, and has secured 1,434 units at the end of 2024. This represents a 41% increase in people served compared to 2023. 

Its buildings span across 17 locations in seven cities: Auburn, Burien, Federal Way, Kirkland, Redmond, Renton, and Seattle. Meanwhile, the County plans to open three more buildings this year. 

In addition to permanent supportive housing, the initiative provides emergency housing units, which do not have a kitchenette. People who accept emergency housing do not have to sign a lease and retain their homeless status, which means they are still eligible for other permanent supportive housing options that may arise while remaining welcome to stay in emergency housing.

Sacred Medicine House includes kitchens for residents. (King County)

The program provides a variety of supportive services in addition to housing, including 24/7 staffing, case management, transportation and food assistance, employment resources, and community events. Residents are eligible for free ORCA transit cards, and participants’ use of public transportation greatly increased over the course of 2024. Buildings also offer free laundry service. 

In order to be eligible for the program, residents must have a disability, behavioral health condition, or chronic illness, which makes access to health care critical. On-site health care offerings, including mental health care and substance use treatment, vary from property to property. Residents are also offered transportation assistance to important medical appointments off-site.  

The data shows that 95% of the permanent supportive housing residents remained housed over the course of one year. This is in contrast to its emergency housing, where only 58% of residents maintained their housing.

“It validates decades of research in supportive housing,” said Kelly Rider, the director of DCHS. “It’s also incredibly exciting to see us get to this point in the Health through Housing initiative, specifically where we’re seeing lives change, we’re seeing the impact of the particular residents that we’ve been able to house. The project of Health through Housing was always about bringing supportive housing to scale, and to see that we have brought it to scale and it is effectively serving its residents is a really good confirmation that we’re on the right track.”

Meanwhile, the 2024 Point-in-Time Count in King County found that the number of unhoused people in our region continues to grow, with an increase of 26% between 2022 and 2024. On any given night, 16,868 people were homeless in King County in 2024. 

Health improvements

The Health Through Housing initiative is firmly grounded in the tenets of Housing First philosophy, and its success thus far offers additional support to that approach. Housing First programs prioritize finding stable housing options for homeless people as an initial step, without requiring they first solve problems like behavioral health issues and substance use disorder. The philosophy espouses the idea that services and treatment tend to be more effective when they are chosen instead of forced. 

“The idea of giving folks housing first actually improving their health all by itself is absolutely good to see reinforced through this data,” said Rider.

This is the first time the initiative has collected data about health outcomes, comparing data from the residents’ year prior to enrollment in the program. Emergency department visits decreased by 17% after one year in the program, and the average in-patient hospital stay decreased by 33%. The average number of inpatient hospital stays also decreased by 22% after the first year. 

The number of participants enrolled in Medicaid only increased by 7%, as many people have already signed up for Medicaid before living in one of the Health Through Housing buildings.

“I was very happy to see the connection between folks getting housing and having some access to health care,” said Jelani Jackson, the manager of the Health Through Housing initiative. “Because that just tells the story of consistent case management that a resident receives, and that resident being able to then go after goals to improve their life, housing, health care, ability, and income, connection to their community, eating healthy, etc.”

Large corner window provide plenty of light for a small dining room table.
The interior of a Burien Health Though Housing unit. (King County)

Jackson spoke of the difficulty experienced by homeless people in maintaining their health. They have fewer medications they can be prescribed, due to not having access to refrigeration and regular toilet use. They have trouble staying clean, leading to skin abrasions and chronic infections. They may not have regular access to a sink and soap to wash their hands.

“It’s sort of an under-discussed aspect of homelessness, but it’s really difficult to maintain your physical and mental health while being on the street night after night, not experiencing safety,” Jackson said. “You know, homeless folks, unfortunately, are incredibly vulnerable. They experience high rates of violence, and there’s a trauma associated with that.”

Rider referenced a study conducted by researchers at the University of Washington in 2009, studying residents of the permanent supportive housing at 1811 Eastlake. The scientists found that the program saved taxpayers over $4 million.

Health Through Housing’s Redmond building. (King County)

“This research reminds us of that,” Rider said. “It tells us that when you take folks who are living on the streets with disabilities and you bring them inside, the safety and security and the stability and the community bringing them inside helps them feel better.”

The Health Through Housing initiative also saves taxpayers money. It costs about $33,000 per year to operate one of their units. By contrast, in February, King County Councilmember Sarah Perry said a night at the King County Jail now costs $250, which adds up to $91,250 annually. 

“Nearly $4,000 is saved for every inpatient hospital stay that’s avoided,” Jackson said. 

The goal of racial equity

One of the goals of the program is to provide equitable access to permanent supportive housing, which means community partners are carefully selected. Current partners include the Chief Seattle Club, Lavender Rights Project, Downtown Emergency Service Center (DESC), the Urban League, and Catholic Community Services. 

The 2024 Point-in-Time Count found that 6% of people experiencing homelessness in King County identified as American Indian, Alaskan Native, or Indigenous, while that group makes up less than 1% of King County’s population. Similarly, the count found that 15% of people experiencing homelessness identified as Black, while only 7% of the total population is Black.

In 2024, 55% of Health Through Housing residents identified as Black, Indigenous, and people of color. This includes a significant increase in American Indian and Alaska Native residents from 3% in 2022 to 16% in 2024, which can be at least partially credited to the program’s partnership with Chief Seattle Club. 

“It’s not just as simple as getting somebody four walls and a ceiling and thinking that their problems are solved,” said Derrick Belgarde, Chief Seattle Club’s executive director. “There’s a lot of healing that needs to be done for people who are chronically homeless. In particular, we’ve focused on Native Americans that suffer from a lot of traumas intergenerationally that haven’t been addressed, from government policies to boarding schools to all kinds of things that affect our community still today.” 

Belgarde spoke about the compounding issues caused by intersectional crises: of homelessness, of substance use, of mental health, and of displacement. “If you go and you look at the streets of downtown and other areas that have a lot of encampments and things, this is what society looks like after 40 plus years of defunding mental health systems,” Belgarde said. “And it’s going to continue to get worse until we start building one back up as a society.”

Chief Seattle Club operates the Salmonberry Lofts and the recently opened Sacred Medicine House through the Health Through Housing initiative. They expect to open the Sweetgrass Flats later this year, and they will be offering property management support to the Lavender Rights Project, who will be operating a new building in Capitol Hill. 

The Sacred Medicine House includes Salish murals. (King County)

At their buildings, Chief Seattle Club offers a traditional mental health counselor. Individual and group sessions are available, presented in culturally appropriate ways, such as talking circles, drum groups, and providing traditional plant medicine and sage smudges. Residents also go on field trips to sweat lodges.

“Obviously, you know, everything we do is kind of culturally grounded and […] traditional principles, and it’s about working with our relatives and healing the community. That’s our target,” Belgarde said. “We’re not in the business of housing people or feeding people. We’re in the business of healing people and trying to get that next generation stronger than what we found.”

Chief Seattle Club provides a social club for Native people, building a community where they will feel welcome. Belgarde emphasized how important having a shared experience is to helping Native people who have experienced chronic homelessness.

A five-story orange building with a similar building in the background.
The Sacred Medicine House in Seattle’s Lake City neighborhood. (King County)

“If you’re going to provide services to address Native American needs, it’s got to come from other Native American people where they could fill that trust,” Belgarde said. “If we start serving just the broad community, once you get to a certain point, Native Americans will stop coming because it’s no longer a safe space for them.”

“When we have organizations that reflect the communities that they serve, we feel that folks will have an easier time accepting services and trusting the system,” said Jackson.

What’s next?

The data shows that 97% of Health Through Housing residents had previous ties in the neighborhood where they now live, a fact that Rider said will make it easier to site new buildings in the future. 

“The ability to really show jurisdictions that we are serving their residents has been an important part of this initiative, and we’re excited to be able to share that the residents that we’re serving are indeed homeless and connected to the communities that they’re now living stably in,” Rider said.

However, challenges remain. While the initiative itself is funded by a county sales tax, making it more resilient in the face of federal cuts, many of the residents housed through the Health Through Housing program rely on federal programs such as Medicaid/Apple Health and SNAP that could soon be facing large cuts. Belgarde pointed out the government might make changes to the system that would make claiming benefits more difficult.

“People of color have paper trauma, have form trauma,” Belgarde said, referring to the difficulties people facing homelessness already encounter navigating bureaucracies and applying for aid programs, which requires seemingly endless paperwork. 

Belgarde expects that deep federal cuts could cause many people to drop out of federal programs, even if they’re theoretically still eligible, since people will have even lower expectations that aid will come through or be unable to navigate increased bureaucratic demands.

The need is great. The Seattle Office of Housing estimated that Seattle alone will need 28,572 new permanent supportive housing units by 2044. 

“We’re going to continue as DCHS to work with the region on expanding permanent supportive housing, but more importantly, to make the best use of the current supportive housing that we have available,” said Rider.

For the time being, the Health Through Housing initiative is having an impact on people it serves who are recovering from homelessness, helping them regain both their dignity and a greater sense of safety. 

“The dignity of having clean clothes, the dignity of having access to a bathroom and a toilet that is all yours and doors that you can lock is just tremendous,” Jackson said. 

The post King County’s Housing First Initiative Boasts High Success Rate first appeared on The Urbanist.

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My Globe and Mail Piece on Bus Priority

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I was in Canada’s national newspaper, the Globe and Mail, on Sunday with a piece about the urgency of bus priority.  An unpaywalled version is here.

Canada’s major cities and transit authorities will continue to propose street design changes that nudge everyone toward sharing the scarce space of the city street more fairly. These proposals will always be compromises between the needs of different users of the street. The goal is always to make everyone’s lives better, and maximize the access to opportunity that is the whole purpose of cities. But if the result is a bit inconvenient for you, it’s probably also still a little inconvenient for everyone else, and that may mean it’s the right compromise for everyone. Urban life is all about making compromises so that we share limited space fairly, with no user allowed to veto the needs of others. In a city, if everyone is compromising, everyone is winning.

The post My Globe and Mail Piece on Bus Priority appeared first on Human Transit.

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Sea to Desert: The 700-mile Bikepacking Route Uniting Washington

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When bicyclists started rolling into the small farming town of Tekoa in 2017, farmer John Heaton took notice. In a place where the wheat sways more often than people come and go, it was hard to miss.

The next year, Heaton couldn’t help himself and approached the riders. That was the first time he heard about the Cross-Washington Mountain Bike Route (XWA), a 700-mile bikepacking race that stretches from the town of La Push on the northwest tip of the state to Heaton’s hometown of Tekoa, on the Idaho border south of Spokane. 

“We’ll take any kind of excitement we can get around here,” Heaton said.

Every year since, Heaton has become a “dot watcher,” someone who tracks the progress of participants via GPS as they make their way across the state.

In a gravel parking lot at the center of town, it’s become tradition for him to welcome riders with the ringing of his cowbell and loading bikes on the back of his truck, giving cyclists a ride to Spokane.

“It’s kind of like a thing of pride,” Heaton said. “I have to be down at the finish line, by God, no matter when they arrive. I’ll be there at two o’clock in the morning on a Wednesday.”

Heaton’s experience is just the tip of a larger story: how the slow-growing sport of bikepacking is connecting communities across Washington, and drawing both national and international attention.

Stitching of the Route

The growing stream of dusty cyclists arriving in Tekoa each spring can all trace their journey back to one person: Troy Hopwood.

At the age of four, Hopwood was crashing bikes into his neighbors’ front yards in Oregon. From there, his love for biking led him to compete in mountain bike races in college, and eventually to a documentary about the Tour Divide, the longest mountain bike route in the world.

Troy is a man with a short gray beard and glasses wearing a yellow rain jacket.
Troy Hopwood briefs the riders during the pre-ride meeting on La Push, Washington on May 17, 2025. (Juan Jocom)

After being voluntarily laid off during Microsoft’s recent mass firing, Hopwood can now focus his full attention towards bikepacking: a mashup of mountain biking and backpacking that requires cyclists to carry all their gear, including tent, sleeping bag, food, water filter, tools, for days or even weeks at a time. For many, it’s an escape from modern convenience; for others, it’s a grueling form of sport.

In 2016, Hopwood stitched together a route, mapping every forest road, gravel trail, and bike path that could link the Pacific Ocean to the rolling Palouse.

The result was the XWA.

The Ride GPS app map of the Cross-Washington Bike Route. (Ride GPS)

Riders traverse everything from misty rainforest and snowy mountain passes to barren scablands and wheat-covered hills. It’s not for the faint of heart. The route often demands dealing with unpredictable spring weather in the west and rocky, unmaintained paths in the east.

“People who live in the state oftentimes don’t even realize how diverse the state is until they take on the route,” Hopwood said.

He wasn’t sure anyone would want to join him. 

But in 2017, a small group of riders took on the route together in what’s known as a “grand depart,” a mass start in La Push. Since then, the race has quietly grown, year by year. In 2024, 54 riders registered; this year, that number has grown to 138.

A big crowd of dozens of bike riders with an RV in the background an overcast sky.
The 2025 crop of XWA bikepackers depart from La Push. (Juan Jocom)

Attracting riders from across the U.S. and even abroad from South Africa to the United Kingdom, the route is also becoming a destination for tourists who are looking to experience what Washington can offer. Cyclists from around the world start by facing the unpredictable weather of the Olympic Peninsula.

Stephen Page is participating in the race for a second year, this time with a friend. Serving as an escape to his busy and structured life in Canada, Page returned to race and reconnect with nature. 

This year also saw more women participating. Emanuela Agosta, a member of the Mountaineers bikepacking division committee, acknowledged the challenge that women still face in male-dominated sports, but said it’s not impossible.

Aune Tiez (left), Annie Bilotta (center), and Emanuela Agosta (right) touch their bikes to the ocean, marking the official start of their ride. The group had previously survived a cougar attack while cycling. They managed to pin the animal down with a bike when it attacked their friend, Keri Bergere. (Juan Jocom)

“​​It’s not as scary as it sounds. It’s just putting some gear together and going on overnights,” Agosta said. “You racing is all subjective… It’s a different challenge for everybody.”

Keeping the state connected

Not all is smooth biking, however. Throughout the years, the eastern section of the route has faced challenges.

After the last train ran on the Milwaukee Railroad that connected Seattle and Chicago in 1980, contention arose over who would own the land where the rail tracks lay.

Alisse Cassell holds up a sign that reads: “Best of luck with your butt.” She is one of many friends and family members who came out to support the riders on the XWA. (Juan Jocom)

Chic Hollenbeck founded the John Wayne Pioneer Wagons and Riders Association, a group that has done an annual pilgrimage on the trail since the 1980s, and lobbied against landowners who wanted the trail to become private land.

Hollenbeck’s group advocated to keep the John Wayne Pioneer Trail public, which much of it was for decades. But in 2015, legislation by Rep. Joe Schmick (R-Colfax) along with Rep. Mary Dye (R-Pomeroy) would have closed a 130-mile section east of the Columbia River and given it to farmers citing maintenance costs, underuse, and crime.

The legislation didn’t pass due to a typo.

Now named the Cascade to Palouse State Park Trail, which mostly covers the scabland section of the route, Hopwood said one of his motivations in creating the XWA was to protect this trail from future legislation that could take it away from the public.

Riders line up at First Beach in La Push, waiting for the official start of the race at 7am. With more than 77 participants in 2025’s grand depart, it marks the largest turnout since 2017. (Juan Jocom)

Audra Sims, area manager for Washington State Parks who manages 10 different parks in the southeastern region of the state, including the Palouse to Cascade Trail, shared her excitement about the development happening in the area.

“A lot of enthusiasm and support for different sections of the trail and all of those things combined can have some impact on how certain developments happen and where and when they happen,” Sims said.

In 2022, the Tekoa Trestle opened to the public, offering additional access to locals. Sims said that current trail and route developments adjacent to rural communities could bring economic development.

A couple of riders approach the end of the XWA ride at Tekoa, where trail angel John Heaton waits to welcome them. (John Heaton)

Washington resident Robert Yates, who was involved with the Palouse to Cascade Trail Coalition, said that rural communities are becoming more open about outsiders and the potential of the route despite the lingering oppositions of some landowners.

The 2020 Economic Analysis of Outdoor Recreation in Washington State shows that bikers riding on paved and gravel routes generated approximately $1.5 billion worth of business.

A map shows the planned trail route through Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Nebraska, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Maryland before arriving in Washington DC.
The 3,700-mile Great American Rail-Trail is 54% complete and will cut coast to coast across America. (Rail to Trail Conservancy)

The trail is also part of the 3,700-mile Great American Rail-Trail, which aims to connect Washington, D.C., and Washington State by revitalizing old rail corridors that could funnel in more visitors across the country. In 2023, a $16 million federal grant advanced work to build out the Olympic Peninsula section of the trail.

It’s a free ride, but respect is required

There are no fees or sign-ups required to participate in the grand depart, which usually takes place during the third week of May. However, riders are encouraged to stay connected on the Facebook group on route changes, trail conditions, and GPS tracking options.

A permit is required for the Palouse to Cascades section of the route, which also provides riders with gate codes necessary for access along parts of the trail.

Riders can take on the XWA at any time of year. For those who want to experience the journey across Washington on a less demanding route, Hopwood has created the XWA Lite, a version that follows a more direct path to the Idaho border.

Whether riding the entire length or just a portion of it, riders should be aware of their skill level and what they are signing up for.

“This ride is 100% self-supported,” Hopwood said. “Nobody will be looking out for your safety other than you. I do not guarantee the route is safe. In fact, this is a dangerous activity. There is a very high likelihood you will get hurt or worse.”

Ultimately, Hopwood often reminds riders to respect the trail by following Leave No Trace principles and being mindful of local residents and private properties near the route.

“Waiters, cashiers, and others don’t care that you are trying to set a personal record,” Hopwood said. “You can tell people you are in a hurry, but the small towns you pass through operate at a different pace. Be patient.”

From Competition to Connection

But for some, it’s not even about the money or the biking.

Flapping in the western winds of La Push, a yellow flag bearing a huge smiley face and a printed “XWA” was propped on the back of Brook Muldrow’s RV. He had driven all the way from Oklahoma to serve as a trail angel, someone who supports riders along the route.

A massage gun, thoughtfully arranged high-calorie snacks on the table, and a watchful eye anticipating muddy riders showing up around the bend make it clear Muldrow has done this for years.

Tara Hopwood, wife of Troy Hopwood, tends the trail angel station, aiding exhausted cyclists. (Juan Jocom)

“I enjoy being able to provide some of the supplies that the riders need at a critical time,” Muldrow said. 

Trail angels like Muldrow are scattered throughout the stretch of the trail from folks in North Bend to Tekoa, oftentimes just leaving marked containers filled with food and supplies outside for bikers.

Among the riders who have come to cherish the XWA race for more than just the competition is Eric Miller.

Wildflower bloom in a coast meadow as riders slog through a goat path.
Eric Miller pushes his bike out of the First Beach trail to begin his 700-mile XWA journey. During a previous ride, Miller met Kelly Muldrow, Brook Muldrow’s brother, which sparked their friendship. (Juan Jocom)

Miller has taken part in the race seven times, having become a regular presence over the years. At first, he was drawn to the challenge primarily to compete – both against himself and against others on the route.

“It started as a personal challenge, something to prove to myself,” Miller said. “But what kept bringing me back year after year wasn’t just the race itself, it was the people.”

During the pre-race meeting on May 17, hugs and huge smiles rivaled the warmth of any parka jacket present. For Miller and other riders, XWA has become a yearly reunion of friends, a time to reconnect and recharge.

Brook Muldrow massages one of the XWA riders at the 40-mile marker, where he set up to offer support on May 18, 2025. Although not a cyclist himself, Muldrow has been serving as a trail angel for four years. (Juan Jocom)

Through trail angels like Muldrow and the riders he met on the route, Miller discovered a tight-knit community that transcended competition. The shared struggles, stories, and moments of support formed lasting friendships that gave the race a new meaning for him.

That same spirit has inspired people like Heaton, who has welcomed strangers year after year with cowbells and open arms. 

After years of cheering from the sidelines, Heaton dreams of participating in the race himself next year – not just for the challenge, but to become part of the community that’s already changed his town and maybe even him.

The post Sea to Desert: The 700-mile Bikepacking Route Uniting Washington first appeared on The Urbanist.

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The Murderbot Apple Trailer just dropped: it’s dope!

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What I love about this most is the voice over. 99 times out of 100 it’s a mistake, but Skarsgard hits the disinterested, a little passive-aggressive, tone of Murderbot so well. The trailer feels like the book feels in my head, vibe-wise, so I’m looking forward to this as I love the books.

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